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 Post subject: Spinning props
PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 8:24 am 
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Supreme Paper Commander
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 2:15 pm
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
fI have seen several posts where people say they have created props that spin nicely when blown. What is the best way to do this? I have used straight pins to attach the props on some of my models, but they dont spin too well. Is there a secret to this?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:10 am 
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FG Origami Master
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Location: San Antonio TX
. I actually create a structure inside the engines when I build them, using spare slivers of card stock. I then make an internal prop shaft out of confectioner's lollipop sticks that I can run a straight pin through. To get the prop to spin on the pin, you can attach veeery small craft beads to the front and back of the prop, and these greatly reduce friction on the pin.

Otherwise, I cut a circle of heavy acetate film (teachers use it for overhead slides, and it doesn't bend or bow), and attach it to give that "spinning prop" look. All my bombers are hanging from the ceiling that way, while fighters are parked gear-down on the credenza in my office (take up lessm uh, "taxiway").

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2005 10:41 am 
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
hHi Ed.

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking of trying that acetate circle idea on my next model. Do you do any colouring or marking on it, or do you usually just cut out a circle? I see FG has a sheet jof them you can print out, but I'm not sure they look quite right.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2005 12:13 pm 
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Paper Model CINC
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Why not print out the ones that FG provides on some computer friendly transparency stock? I think they're on the Goodies CD--and I think you can down load them from the web page--at least you used to be able. They'r all one size, but if you're at all handy, you can print 'em larger, or simply cut them down a bit if they're too big.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:01 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Location: New York, US
SSome large models, like the B-29 & B-36 even have their own prop-discs because they have such large props. On a side note, if you only want one sheet of prop-discs, it may be cheaper to go to Staples and have them photocopied onto transparencies rather than buying a whole box.

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If a tree falls in a forest, and no one's around to hear it, who really cares?
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Painter of Airwolf
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:50 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Location: San Antonio TX
.I've found that despite my best intentions, my prop disks get warped whenever run through a laser printer. The heat from the fuser puts a curl into the sheet.

I usually take a blank sheet of paper and my compass. Using the compass, I get the radius off of the still prop, then make the circle on the blank sheet. Next, I place the sheet behind the acetate, then use a water-based felt-tip pen to roughly trace the prop onto the acetate. I then cut the circle out, then wash it in warm soapy water to get off all of the pen. I go back and place the circle back onto the paper I first drew the circle on, and use the compass point to score out the exact center of the disk.

Have fun, no matter what direction you go!

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Edward Merica
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 4:08 am 
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Paper Model CINC
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That just proves that the best isn't always the most suitable. Inkjet transparency paper works just great on my computer's el cheapo printer. I "doctored up" the propdisk page by adding a thin ring of yellow around the edge. A single package has lasted me since I started this madness. Also works great for canopies and windows, as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:01 am 
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FG Cutter
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Location: Cambridge, England
I like spinning props too! :lol:

I use 0.7mm or 0.9mm brass wire running in a bit of brass or aluminium tube. The tube is usually fixed in the firewall indirectly, via a top hat bush made of paper (or make a brass turned fitting if you have a lathe!). The wire fixes to the prop or spinner - mostly. A second short section of brass tube is glued or soldered to the back of the assembly (it will be inside the plane when finished - but not yet!) to hold the prop on. This is smaller in diameter than the bush so that the whole thing can be pushed or glued in a hole in the firewall.

Bushes are essential for WW1 rotary engines which rotate with the prop as the weight (even with paper) needs a decent bearing surface to run freely.

A small washer on the fixing pin - a sliver off a piece of brass tube will do - between the prop and the engine/front of plane, etc, will reduce friction and help the prop rotate when you blow it round.

To cut small brass tube - don't use a saw!!! Use a heavy craft knife. Roll the tube along the cutting mat by pushing down and forward on it with the knife blade. Roll back and forth. brass tube will usually cut quite easily like this. You end up with a straight cut and tidy edge. No filing required!

AJD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 8:10 am 
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FG Tissue Paper
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Location: Western PA
.Great looking spinning props can also be simulated on any clear plastic sheet you might have laying around the house by first cutting out the size of disk you need, then using the long edge of an Emery board to scratch the 2, 3, or 4 blades into the disk using a fanning motion at each blade location center to edge.) No ink or toner to worry about.


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